apex | Purple Nails

Hello everyone!

Today I want to talk about a new product and a new technique: polygel and polyform (or dual form).

We will see its features and if indeed it is a more practical and faster solution to the reconstruction with the nail form / tip.

What is it

Polygel or acrigel is a hybrid product, like gel polishes. It has characteristics of the gel but also of acrylic. It is modeled with a brush soaked in solution ,like acrylic ,but it cures in a lamp like a gel.

It is a very innovative product which in recent times has gained popularity.
In particular thanks to its use with polyforms.

Use with nail form

This product can be used without problems to create a structure with nail form . The rules of the structure will always be the same. I suggest to use it especially during the summer, period in which gel is more likely to leak and make the job less easy.
You can have the comforts of acrylic that is more solid and dense to work, but without being in a hurry for the product to polymerize in the air.

Use with polyform

Browsing on instagram I often find advertising about this new technique that involves the use of acrigel.
In practice you need to apply the product inside these concave tip and then simply apply them on the nail , polymerize and the work is done.

Or at least through videos they make it seem so easy and fast.
I also understand that those who produce these kits must sell as much as possible and advertise themselves, so I also understand why, through promotional videos, it seems more easy and accessible.

People will be convinced to try and buy the kit.

I leave a link of a post from a girl showing the use of dual forms, but if you search on YouTube you will find many tutorial.

But now I will explain my point of view, on this new technique.

Choice of polyform

Very important in any reconstruction is the choice of the right tip, nail form adaptation, in order to create the most natural and solid result possible .
It is not said that in all those prefabricated forms that they will sell us, there will be one suitable for us.

For example, by choosing a dual form that is too large, the product may deposit on the skin, creating lifts.

If it were too small, it would not include the whole portion of the nail well, weakening the structure.

I also remember that nail products must come into contact with the skin as little as possible, since they are highly allergenic.

Structure

Since this is a treatment that is designed to be easy and fast and which can be done at home , the creation of apex is not contemplated.
Once the polyform is attacked, polymerized and removed, the nail is ready. No Apex.

So how can it hold up such a structure?

It could last for luck, but there are more chances of reconstruction’s fragility.

Refill

You can imagine, however, that you managed to create a structure and that it lasted 3 weeks.
At this point how do we proceed to the regrow nail?
It is impossible not to make the refill, but those who buy these kits, I don’t think they thought of the possibility of having to fill the new portion of nail.

Watching the promotional videos, the time of filling the regrowth is not shown, so future customers will remain unaware of what to do.

I also believe that among all the procedures in the world of nail techs, the refill is the most important one that without a minimum of information cannot be performed.

So considering these points, I believe it is clear that acrigel as a product is excellent and versatile, but the use of polyforms is not recommended.
In my opinion it is all a misleading advertising.

Obviously as I have always said, in my articles I express my thoughts and if someone has found this method good, I am nobody to deny his words.

In this job everyone finds her favorite material and technique, and it is not said that a product is used by all nail technicians.

That said, I hope you enjoyed my article and I hope I have made you aware of this new technique.

If you liked the article, share it with whomever you want and see you soon!

SOFIA

Hi guys, today I want to share with you what are the “stakes” to do a correct nail reconstruction. By illustrating these points, potential customers will also be able to distinguish a correct work from a poorly executed one.
Let’s begin!

Rule of proportionality

How many times we see such long nails that we think: “But how do they do everyday things?”
The first rule for a well done reconstruction is to create a nail that is proportional to the starting one.

Imagine you hypothetically divide the nail in 3 sections. Following the rule it would be correct to reconstruct up to 2 parts of it.

Obviously if the client insists on wanting them much longer, she must take responsibility for a possible break.

In fact, following the rule, the chances of the nail breaking are much inferior.

Look for example at this excessively long nail which, due to a hit , broke exactly in the stress point (point where the nail naturally undergoes flexion in case of strokes), which is on the nail bed.

This person certainly felt a lot of pain and bleeding.
Next time he’ll think twice about making it up like that!

Based on my nail, this is the correct length for a reconstruction ..

Not this one.

Apex rule

Apex, “bombatura”, give it the name you want, but I’m sure that for many of you it’s still a mystery.

Even for me it was before attending the course, and I thought it served only to make the nail chunky.
Instead it’s very important.

Before I mentioned what the stress point was and now I will explain it better.

The stress point corresponds to the point where the nail separates from the skin and is the point where it, composed of keratin, flexes (and then returns to its normal position) if it suffers a hit.

The reconstruction, whether in gel or acrylic, is much more robust than natural nails and in case of strokes, it risks to break easily.

The apex serves to strengthen and protect the stress point, so as to lower the likelihood of the nails breaking.

In the structure it must be positioned a little before the point of stress, because it must be considered that the nail grows within three weeks, therefore the product will never leave this point without protection.

Obviously all the nails of one hand are different so the apex is not said to be positioned at the same point for all ten fingers!

Many customers may ask not to have the apex done because they are traumatized by badly works.

The highest point of the nail must be a maximum of 1 millimeter, so neither too thick nor too thin.

Still on my hand, I created the apex at the point where the nail disincarnates from the skin.

Here I specifically wanted to place it in the wrong place.

Rule of parallelism

This rule includes a portion of nail often ignored: the Sidewalls.
As the word itself says, this portion is found on the sides of the nail, both natural and reconstructed, and it is very important to preserve them.

Especially in ballerina or almond nails, there is the tendence to file the sidewall because frontally you want to get a less wide and finer nail.

Obviously eliminating or in any case filing the sides too much, will lead to a weakening of the nail structure, which consequently will result more flat and without the c curve.
Although I created a ballerina, I paid attention to the sidewalls.

The nail will not be as tight as we are used to seeing it, but at least it is correct.

Furthermore, constantly stressing the sides can cause permanent damage to the natural nail, which, perhaps after years of filing, will see them absent.

I did not know the importance of them, so for years I have filed them and as you can see from the photo, I miss the side of the nail.

C-curve rule

Seen from the front, most of the nails have a C-shaped curve.
Even in reconstructions it is important to recreate this curve, using the sidewalls pliers and not the office pliers that hold the sheets together, because they can damage the natural nails.

This rule gives further strength to the reconstruction that will resist the most shocks.

The c-curve should not be present only at the tip, but on the whole portion of reconstructed nail.

See how my reconstructed nail has a C curve.

This one hasn’t, and therefore it will be more fragile.

In conclusion these are the main rules for making or recognizing a good reconstruction. They must coexist to make the nail as sturdy as possible and above all to lower the apex as much as possible.

If one or more rules were missing, we would run the risk of possible breaks and instability of the reconstructions.

Obviously these rules must be related to a good preparation of the nail and good materials.

Said that, I hope to have opened your eyes on how to recognize a good reconstruction and I hope that you will look at them closely.
See you soon and if you enjoyed this post, share it with whoever you want!

SOFIA